Cead Failte to my UW Photography blog.
I blog a bit on many aspects of photography.
I aim to use this blog primarily to educate myself as I am not an experienced UW photographer. I am naive enough to think that it may also be of use to divers thinking of getting into UW photography. The learning process involved searching many web sites and UW magazine articles as well as going through the process of making purchases.
When Alex Tattersall asked me if I needed a zoom ring for the Tokina lens _ I had no idea what it was - why I would need it and how it might connect to the lens.
When I was sold two buoyancy floats for the GoPro I paid for them - only later realised that I did not need them.
When I bought a lump of magnifying glass for the front of the GoPro I didn't realise that there was a much more efficient system out there.
I bought a one arm tray for the GoPro - not realising that two arms are way better than one.
Yes I made lots of mistakes........
If you find my blog useful - happy days!
Suggestions, corrections and advice all welcome.
seankent1@gmail.com
I am a member of Dublin Camera Club where I teach various aspects of surface photography particularly the elements of Exposure and how they relate to each other.
My web site can be viewed > HERE
Dublin Camera club web site can be viewed > HERE
Your UW camera set up can be very simple - as in light, inexpensive, yet very functional.
Or it can be large, very expensive and potentially at least offering beautiful results.
A GoPro offers an interesting introduction to shooting UW video.
It is easy to set up - almost weightless - and easily stowed out of the way if necessary.
I am getting into diving primarily for the photography.
I am in the process of doing my advanced Open Water.
I am heading to the Red Sea in June on a photography Liveaboard with ScubaTravel.
************************************
Camera Choices for shooting underwater
The main types > DSLR camera + housing and Compact camera + housing.
Yes you can shoot with a Smart Phone! with its own housing.
Housing available for iPhone 4/4s/5/5s/ 6. Price £167 from Nauticam UK.
The housing refers to the casing into which the camera is placed.
The housing has external buttons and switches which connect with and operate the buttons and switches on the camera itself.
1. The Compact Camera Underwater
Here is an example > Nikonos V
On the right with arm and Strobe light attached.
Various companies specialise in producing UW housings so that cameras can be used down to 40+m.
Nuaticam, Ikelite, Recsea and others.
An UW camera should be rugged and of sturdy build.
The latest DC 2000 SeaLife includes housing rated to 200ft - 20MP - with a high quality SONY sensor - manual controls - shoots Raw and JPEG - "ultra fast auto focus" $700
Small and neat - "perfect for mid-level and advanced photographers" (SportDiver)
The DC2000 below (about E800) and in use UW on the right.
Best UW Compact cameras 2016 (Maybe)
I am taking just one example - there are more than a few great compacts out there very suitable for UW photography.
If you also want to do UW video - do your camera research first.
Some cameras are not very suitable for video - more later!
****************************
Olympus TG-4 (info from Backscatter web site). Also the TG-3.
This is the housing below £207.50 from Cameras Underwater/UK
The TG4 Camera
Olympus camera TG-4 - £269 - £300
(depending where you search)
Amazon uk
You need the PT-056 housing (left) for scuba making it waterproof to 150ft.
Great for macro even without an accessory lens.
So camera + housing for about £500.
Ikelite are a well respected Housing manufacturing company.
This is their housing for the Olympus TG-4 and also fits the TG-3 (previous version of camera).
Available from Cameras Underwater UK
£279. Click HERE to go to website.
Has RAW* shooting support.
*Raw will be important as you start editing.
It gives you a lot more scope to edit your shots as in colour, contrast etc.
If "Shooting in Raw" means absolutely nothing to you take a look >
HERE and/or HERE
There are Pros and Cons to this camera
Click HERE to view them.
They also do the very attractive Ikelite #6233.04 housing for the TG3 and TG4 £310
Sony RX 100 iv
Best overall - "excellent for video and ambient light shots" BlueWater photo.
Click HERE to view the article from BlueWaterPhoto.
Housing: "For someone who wants to take amazing photos in a small package, the Sony RX100 II in a Recsea housing sets a new standard for compact cameras " BlueWater photo.
BlueWater choices
1. Sony RX100 IV 20MP 3 dive battery life. Most expensive of this group.
2. Canon G7X 20MP 2-3 dives battery
3. Canon G16 12MP 3 dives
4. Olympus TG-4 16MP "Best budget choice" Auto focus speed average! Shoots RAW.
*****************************************
Also listed in the "Best Compacts 2016" are the Canon Powershot G7 - €600 Conns, Dublin.
Conns also sell the housing for the Canon G7 called the Canon WP-DC55 for €320.
Camera + Housing €920 Pictures on Conns web site.
Conns sell a variety of Waterproof housings for various compact cameras. Click HERE.
Also listed in "Best Compacts 2016" - the Sony RX 100 - €399 at Conns, Dublin,
and the Panosonic LX100 - €639 at Conns.
The Canon G16 - shoots Raw. Excellent in low light.
John Collins is an Irish rep for Nauticam > johncollins1@mac.com
The difficult of trying to assemble UW photographic gear here in Ireland is that there is very limited demand and consequently limited or no stock - depending what you are after.
For the very best and widest choice of UW camera gear and accessories it is difficult to beat companies like Nauticam UK - run by the excellent UW photographer Alex Tattersall.
Click HERE to visit their web site.
What next? You have the camera and housing.
Compact housings don't usually come with handles/arms
which help greatly in keeping the camera steady UW.
On the right is the tray and handles for the
Sony RX 100
It has two mounting balls where strobe lights or a focus light can be attached using clamps. It also has a Vacuum Valve - which is a visible and audible leak check system! Peace of mind.
Compact set-up
showing camera
tray and two flexible arms -
One holding a Focus light (on left) and
the other holding a strobe light.
The unit is attached to the diver with a sturdy Lanyard like this >
The coil allows for the camera to be moved away from the diver without detaching it from her.
Set up choices
Some use a dive light in one hand and the camera in the other - no tray.
Some have a one-arm tray upon which the camera is attached with the dive light on that arm.
Some have a set-up like the photo above. The focus light might be left on and greatly helps the camera to focus. NB Read manufactures advice re leaving the light on continuously.
*********************************
2 Web sites dealing with UW photography with a compact camera.
(Just click HERE to go there - if you follow my drift...)
1. ScubaDiverLife: click > HERE
2. Under Water Photography Guide Click > HERE
Other web sites
3. Backscatter click >Backscatter.com Video, Photo, Lighting, Package deals.
4. UnderWater Photography Magazine (UwP) - is an online pdf magazine that you can download to your PC or iPad - lots of great articles and tutorials. Buy second hand gear at uwpmag.com. You need to subscribe. UK production.
5. Bluewater photo is an American company - compare the prices.
6. Wetpixels American site - a community website dedicated to UW photography
Here is a discussion forum on managing heavy photo gear through airport check-ins > HERE
7. DivePhotoGuide (DPG) - Possibly the best - register and you will get their production delivered free to your email as it comes on stream - Great articles/tutorials - Travel - Techniques - Galleries - Contests.
8. ISSUU.COM
I came across this little gem while hunting for experimental photography images.
In the Issuu web site search for "Diver" and there you will find an ocean full of magazines
including Diver Medic, Northern Diver, Alert Diver, Sport Diver and more!
NB You must Sign in to be able to read - otherwise it will be out of focus!! True.
9. A Beginners Guide to UW Photography Click > HERE
*******************************************
2. The DSLR camera for Underwater.
My gear consist of a Nauticam D7000 setup. Two Inon Z240 strobes and a dive light.
I was taken aback when the housing arrived from Nauticam UK -
It is not light - It is not small!
Out of the water the Housing + camera + 2 strobes weighs in at just under 15lbs.
Thankfully in the water it is possible to make the whole set up almost "weightless".
The aim is to get it to be slightly negatively buoyant.
The arms are fitted with buoyancy on each side.
The strobes connect to the top of the housing with a fibre optic cable each.
How does that work?
The flash on the camera is in the up position inside the housing - it needs to be.
If you forget before going under there is a lever on the outside of the housing that works it.
When you take a shot underwater the camera flash fires - probably at 1/100 of full power.
That camera flash does nothing to light the shot - it simply triggers the strobes to fire.
I also have a GoPro 4 - which I find very tricky to get smooth footage.
I am beginning to think that a tripod would be a worthwhile addition.
I need to research this more.
The potential for better quality photos moves up many notches with the Dslr.
And so does the price!
All versions of dslr from the ancient to the modern full frame, to mirorless come into play here.
There is little sense in buying an "old" if cheap camera like the D70 (I did own one).
The housing is going to cost a LOT regardless of the camera you choose.
So pick a decent camera.
There are excellent mid range cameras available now offering fantastic spec without going to the high end of the spectrum like the Nikon D810 or the Canon 5D Mark1V.
Cropped sensor cameras make both macro and WA easy UW.
Full frame cameras shine for ambient light shots - that have superior low light capabilities and auto-focus and dynamic range.
Cropped sensor explained HERE
Ambient is the natural light present at a scene before any other light is added - link further down.
Dynamic range refers to the ability of a camera sensor to capture a very wide range of brightness values.
The excellent Nikon D7100 - is a cropped sensor camera - successor to the popular D7000.
Housings vary in price for this camera. Ikelite Housing £1716 from Amazom UK ( €1987)
Nauticam Housing £3050 UK
So camera + Housing Price is possible for about €3000.
Nobody said it was cheap!
2 lens for MACRO.
The 60mm prime lens is an ideal lens for macro.
The 105mm prime lens is also excellent but not as easy to manage.
For WIDE ANGLE with a dslr the Tokina 10-17 is very popular.
It is a fish eye lens meaning that it has a huge wide angle of coverage.
To use it you need to buy a dome which attaches to the front of the housing. Example image : Alec Mustard's Whale Shark below.
Domes can be in glass or acrylic.
Glass is heavier, more expensive and less likely to scratch.
Domes come in many sizes from 4.3in to 9in.
Left above is the small 4.33in dome port
and under that what is looks like on a housing.
£573 for the acrylic version for the Tokina (Nauticam UK)
The Tokina can zoom from 10 -17 and to do that UW you need to attach a zoom ring - which will be in the housing and controlled by a knob outside the housing.
How you do that is explained > HERE
Don't confuse focusing with zooming in and out
It is suggested to beginners that you leave the Tokina at 10mm when learning and get yourself closer rather than zooming in. But - I have also seen the opposite advice!
If you are using the 60mm for macro you need a Flat Port / which is like a cylinder with a glass front covering and protecting the lens.
This is an Ikelite flat port for a 60mm lens.
This port would attach to the front of the housing.
The 60 and the 105 are prime lens so you can't zoom with them - you simply move closer or further away to compose the shot
Both the Tokina and the 60mm can be picked up second hand.
I bought my Tokina used from the excellent UW photographer Greg Lecoeur and a pristine 60mm second-hand for €150.
The Tokina comes Nikon and Canon fit and possibly other fits with an adaptor.
UW photography can be expensive.
There is not a lot of used gear available esp. in Ireland
But it is possible to get fitted with a very good compact set up for a fraction of the dslr set up.
Photography Lingo
It should be obvious that you need to become very familiar with some basic photography lingo
Eg aperture - shutter speed (SS) - ISO and depth of field (DOF).
If none of these make much sense to you I suggest you take a look at this blog - and scroll down to Aperture : Control 2. Click > HERE to go there now.
Don't be put off if these terms are not familiar - you can generally set up the camera before the dive so that very few adjustments are required UW.
Eg you might set the Aperture to f/13 because you want a big DOF and leave it there.
Likewise you might set the ISO to 200 and leave it.
The shutter speed may vary.
If you are shooting moving subjects you will need fast enough *SS so that your shots are not blurred.
(* = shutter speed)
SS has a bearing also on ambient light - that is natural light from above.
Here is a good article from DPG (Dive Photo Guide) explaining what Ambient Light is and how to use it > click HERE
Ambient Light is dependent on sunlight.
Bright days make life easy - giving us a realistic view of the UW world.
Dark days are a challenge.
White Balance
Custom White Balance can make life easier if your camera supports it.
White balance refers to the colour temperature of light which ranges from the very cool light of a blue sky to the warm light of a lighted candle.
Our eyes make adjustments for colour temperature but a camera can't do the same.
So for cool colours like blue and green we tell the camera to warm things up and visa versa.
This is done by telling the camera what white looks like in a particular environment so it then has a reference point to decide how other colours should look.
Example:
This first shot taken with
Auto White Balance.
Light bulbs in the room made
the image warm and Yellow.
Using a white card or piece of white paper
you tell the camera what
white looks like.
The second shot is a more accurate and
truer shot of the book colours.
Good article from uwphotographyguide HERE "Ambient Light and White Balance".
If you shoot in RAW it is easy to correct white balance in post processing with Lightroom or Photoshop.
Did you know you can download Photoshop CS2 for free? Yes it is legal.
***************************************
You can do a lot of good exposure shooting with one strobe.
Did somebody mention strobe?
STROBES
Before you get your camera wet it should be obvious that you are familiar with the basics of that camera. That you can set the Aperture - the Shutter Speed and the ISO and can change them as required UW.
Then you need to back that up with knowing your housing and its controls.
I find a lot of surface practice helps greatly.
DPG
The link is > HERE
Lots of advice here some more advanced e.g.
Syncing strobes and cameras
High sync speed
Lighting macro and wide angle.
Click on Articles (top of the page) to view over 70 pages of images and info.
Galleries has over 20 pages of great images.
Articles and images for UW strobe positioning Click > HERE
Where in Ireland can you do an UW photography course?
Ideally I would like pool sessions where "subjects" could be positioned near the bottom.
Instruction from an experienced UW photographer.
Instruction to cover buoyancy techniques - composition - lighting - ambient light -
exposure - etc.
NAC would be ideal.
Scuba West do a session.
Above image Alex used f/11 to ensure everything is in focus = big DOF.
1/200s was enough to ensure a steady shot.
ISO 320 allows good exposure of the underneath of the animal that might otherwise be dark.
I blog a bit on many aspects of photography.
I aim to use this blog primarily to educate myself as I am not an experienced UW photographer. I am naive enough to think that it may also be of use to divers thinking of getting into UW photography. The learning process involved searching many web sites and UW magazine articles as well as going through the process of making purchases.
When Alex Tattersall asked me if I needed a zoom ring for the Tokina lens _ I had no idea what it was - why I would need it and how it might connect to the lens.
When I was sold two buoyancy floats for the GoPro I paid for them - only later realised that I did not need them.
When I bought a lump of magnifying glass for the front of the GoPro I didn't realise that there was a much more efficient system out there.
I bought a one arm tray for the GoPro - not realising that two arms are way better than one.
Yes I made lots of mistakes........
If you find my blog useful - happy days!
Suggestions, corrections and advice all welcome.
seankent1@gmail.com
I am a member of Dublin Camera Club where I teach various aspects of surface photography particularly the elements of Exposure and how they relate to each other.
My web site can be viewed > HERE
Dublin Camera club web site can be viewed > HERE
Your UW camera set up can be very simple - as in light, inexpensive, yet very functional.
A GoPro offers an interesting introduction to shooting UW video.
It is easy to set up - almost weightless - and easily stowed out of the way if necessary.
I am getting into diving primarily for the photography.
I am in the process of doing my advanced Open Water.
I am heading to the Red Sea in June on a photography Liveaboard with ScubaTravel.
Camera Choices for shooting underwater
Compact Camera
DSLR camera
iPhone!
GoPro
The main types > DSLR camera + housing and Compact camera + housing.
Yes you can shoot with a Smart Phone! with its own housing.
Housing available for iPhone 4/4s/5/5s/ 6. Price £167 from Nauticam UK.
The housing refers to the casing into which the camera is placed.
The housing has external buttons and switches which connect with and operate the buttons and switches on the camera itself.
1. The Compact Camera Underwater
Here is an example > Nikonos V
On the right with arm and Strobe light attached.
Various companies specialise in producing UW housings so that cameras can be used down to 40+m.
Nuaticam, Ikelite, Recsea and others.
An UW camera should be rugged and of sturdy build.
The latest DC 2000 SeaLife includes housing rated to 200ft - 20MP - with a high quality SONY sensor - manual controls - shoots Raw and JPEG - "ultra fast auto focus" $700
Small and neat - "perfect for mid-level and advanced photographers" (SportDiver)
The DC2000 below (about E800) and in use UW on the right.
****************************************
Best UW Compact cameras 2016 (Maybe)
I am taking just one example - there are more than a few great compacts out there very suitable for UW photography.
If you also want to do UW video - do your camera research first.
Some cameras are not very suitable for video - more later!
****************************
Olympus TG-4 (info from Backscatter web site). Also the TG-3.
This is the housing below £207.50 from Cameras Underwater/UK
The TG4 Camera
Olympus camera TG-4 - £269 - £300
(depending where you search)
Amazon uk
You need the PT-056 housing (left) for scuba making it waterproof to 150ft.
Great for macro even without an accessory lens.
So camera + housing for about £500.
Ikelite are a well respected Housing manufacturing company.
This is their housing for the Olympus TG-4 and also fits the TG-3 (previous version of camera).
Available from Cameras Underwater UK
£279. Click HERE to go to website.
Has RAW* shooting support.
*Raw will be important as you start editing.
It gives you a lot more scope to edit your shots as in colour, contrast etc.
If "Shooting in Raw" means absolutely nothing to you take a look >
HERE and/or HERE
There are Pros and Cons to this camera
Click HERE to view them.
They also do the very attractive Ikelite #6233.04 housing for the TG3 and TG4 £310
Sony RX 100 iv
Best overall - "excellent for video and ambient light shots" BlueWater photo.
Click HERE to view the article from BlueWaterPhoto.
Housing: "For someone who wants to take amazing photos in a small package, the Sony RX100 II in a Recsea housing sets a new standard for compact cameras " BlueWater photo.
BlueWater choices
1. Sony RX100 IV 20MP 3 dive battery life. Most expensive of this group.
2. Canon G7X 20MP 2-3 dives battery
3. Canon G16 12MP 3 dives
4. Olympus TG-4 16MP "Best budget choice" Auto focus speed average! Shoots RAW.
*****************************************
Also listed in the "Best Compacts 2016" are the Canon Powershot G7 - €600 Conns, Dublin.
Conns also sell the housing for the Canon G7 called the Canon WP-DC55 for €320.
Camera + Housing €920 Pictures on Conns web site.
Conns sell a variety of Waterproof housings for various compact cameras. Click HERE.
Also listed in "Best Compacts 2016" - the Sony RX 100 - €399 at Conns, Dublin,
and the Panosonic LX100 - €639 at Conns.
The Canon G16 - shoots Raw. Excellent in low light.
John Collins is an Irish rep for Nauticam > johncollins1@mac.com
The difficult of trying to assemble UW photographic gear here in Ireland is that there is very limited demand and consequently limited or no stock - depending what you are after.
For the very best and widest choice of UW camera gear and accessories it is difficult to beat companies like Nauticam UK - run by the excellent UW photographer Alex Tattersall.Click HERE to visit their web site.
What next? You have the camera and housing.
Compact housings don't usually come with handles/arms
which help greatly in keeping the camera steady UW.
On the right is the tray and handles for the
Sony RX 100
It has two mounting balls where strobe lights or a focus light can be attached using clamps. It also has a Vacuum Valve - which is a visible and audible leak check system! Peace of mind.
showing camera
tray and two flexible arms -
One holding a Focus light (on left) and
the other holding a strobe light.
The unit is attached to the diver with a sturdy Lanyard like this >
The coil allows for the camera to be moved away from the diver without detaching it from her.Set up choices
Some use a dive light in one hand and the camera in the other - no tray.
Some have a one-arm tray upon which the camera is attached with the dive light on that arm.
Some have a set-up like the photo above. The focus light might be left on and greatly helps the camera to focus. NB Read manufactures advice re leaving the light on continuously.
2 Web sites dealing with UW photography with a compact camera.
(Just click HERE to go there - if you follow my drift...)
1. ScubaDiverLife: click > HERE
2. Under Water Photography Guide Click > HERE
Other web sites
3. Backscatter click >Backscatter.com Video, Photo, Lighting, Package deals.
4. UnderWater Photography Magazine (UwP) - is an online pdf magazine that you can download to your PC or iPad - lots of great articles and tutorials. Buy second hand gear at uwpmag.com. You need to subscribe. UK production.
5. Bluewater photo is an American company - compare the prices.
6. Wetpixels American site - a community website dedicated to UW photography
Here is a discussion forum on managing heavy photo gear through airport check-ins > HERE
7. DivePhotoGuide (DPG) - Possibly the best - register and you will get their production delivered free to your email as it comes on stream - Great articles/tutorials - Travel - Techniques - Galleries - Contests.
8. ISSUU.COM
I came across this little gem while hunting for experimental photography images.
In the Issuu web site search for "Diver" and there you will find an ocean full of magazines
including Diver Medic, Northern Diver, Alert Diver, Sport Diver and more!
NB You must Sign in to be able to read - otherwise it will be out of focus!! True.
9. A Beginners Guide to UW Photography Click > HERE
*******************************************
2. The DSLR camera for Underwater.
My gear consist of a Nauticam D7000 setup. Two Inon Z240 strobes and a dive light.
I was taken aback when the housing arrived from Nauticam UK -
It is not light - It is not small!
Out of the water the Housing + camera + 2 strobes weighs in at just under 15lbs.
Thankfully in the water it is possible to make the whole set up almost "weightless".
The aim is to get it to be slightly negatively buoyant.
This is my D7000V Nauticam housing with the small acrylic wide angle port.
Inside the housing is the Nikon D7000 camera with the Tokina 10-17 lens.
The lens is fitted with a zoom ring - an add on.
I made the carrying lanyard which you can see across the top of the housing.The arms are fitted with buoyancy on each side.
The strobes connect to the top of the housing with a fibre optic cable each.
How does that work?
The flash on the camera is in the up position inside the housing - it needs to be.
If you forget before going under there is a lever on the outside of the housing that works it.
When you take a shot underwater the camera flash fires - probably at 1/100 of full power.
That camera flash does nothing to light the shot - it simply triggers the strobes to fire.
I also have a GoPro 4 - which I find very tricky to get smooth footage.
I am beginning to think that a tripod would be a worthwhile addition.
I need to research this more.
And so does the price!
All versions of dslr from the ancient to the modern full frame, to mirorless come into play here.
There is little sense in buying an "old" if cheap camera like the D70 (I did own one).
The housing is going to cost a LOT regardless of the camera you choose.
So pick a decent camera.
There are excellent mid range cameras available now offering fantastic spec without going to the high end of the spectrum like the Nikon D810 or the Canon 5D Mark1V.
Cropped sensor cameras make both macro and WA easy UW.
Full frame cameras shine for ambient light shots - that have superior low light capabilities and auto-focus and dynamic range.
Cropped sensor explained HERE
Ambient is the natural light present at a scene before any other light is added - link further down.
Dynamic range refers to the ability of a camera sensor to capture a very wide range of brightness values.
The excellent Nikon D7100 - is a cropped sensor camera - successor to the popular D7000.
Housings vary in price for this camera. Ikelite Housing £1716 from Amazom UK ( €1987)
Nauticam Housing £3050 UK
So camera + Housing Price is possible for about €3000.
Nobody said it was cheap!
2 lens for MACRO.
The 60mm prime lens is an ideal lens for macro.
The 105mm prime lens is also excellent but not as easy to manage.
For WIDE ANGLE with a dslr the Tokina 10-17 is very popular.It is a fish eye lens meaning that it has a huge wide angle of coverage.
To use it you need to buy a dome which attaches to the front of the housing. Example image : Alec Mustard's Whale Shark below.
Domes can be in glass or acrylic.
Glass is heavier, more expensive and less likely to scratch.
Domes come in many sizes from 4.3in to 9in.
Left above is the small 4.33in dome port
and under that what is looks like on a housing.
£573 for the acrylic version for the Tokina (Nauticam UK)
The Tokina can zoom from 10 -17 and to do that UW you need to attach a zoom ring - which will be in the housing and controlled by a knob outside the housing.
How you do that is explained > HERE
Don't confuse focusing with zooming in and out
It is suggested to beginners that you leave the Tokina at 10mm when learning and get yourself closer rather than zooming in. But - I have also seen the opposite advice!
If you are using the 60mm for macro you need a Flat Port / which is like a cylinder with a glass front covering and protecting the lens.
This is an Ikelite flat port for a 60mm lens.
This port would attach to the front of the housing.
The 60 and the 105 are prime lens so you can't zoom with them - you simply move closer or further away to compose the shot
Both the Tokina and the 60mm can be picked up second hand.
I bought my Tokina used from the excellent UW photographer Greg Lecoeur and a pristine 60mm second-hand for €150.
The Tokina comes Nikon and Canon fit and possibly other fits with an adaptor.
UW photography can be expensive.
There is not a lot of used gear available esp. in Ireland
But it is possible to get fitted with a very good compact set up for a fraction of the dslr set up.
Photography Lingo
It should be obvious that you need to become very familiar with some basic photography lingo
Eg aperture - shutter speed (SS) - ISO and depth of field (DOF).
If none of these make much sense to you I suggest you take a look at this blog - and scroll down to Aperture : Control 2. Click > HERE to go there now.
Don't be put off if these terms are not familiar - you can generally set up the camera before the dive so that very few adjustments are required UW.
Eg you might set the Aperture to f/13 because you want a big DOF and leave it there.
Likewise you might set the ISO to 200 and leave it.
The shutter speed may vary.
If you are shooting moving subjects you will need fast enough *SS so that your shots are not blurred.
(* = shutter speed)
SS has a bearing also on ambient light - that is natural light from above.
Here is a good article from DPG (Dive Photo Guide) explaining what Ambient Light is and how to use it > click HERE
Ambient Light is dependent on sunlight.
Bright days make life easy - giving us a realistic view of the UW world.
Dark days are a challenge.
White Balance
Custom White Balance can make life easier if your camera supports it.
White balance refers to the colour temperature of light which ranges from the very cool light of a blue sky to the warm light of a lighted candle.
Our eyes make adjustments for colour temperature but a camera can't do the same.
So for cool colours like blue and green we tell the camera to warm things up and visa versa.
This is done by telling the camera what white looks like in a particular environment so it then has a reference point to decide how other colours should look.
Example:
Auto White Balance.
Light bulbs in the room made
the image warm and Yellow.
Using a white card or piece of white paper
you tell the camera what
white looks like.
The second shot is a more accurate and
truer shot of the book colours.
Good article from uwphotographyguide HERE "Ambient Light and White Balance".
If you shoot in RAW it is easy to correct white balance in post processing with Lightroom or Photoshop.
Did you know you can download Photoshop CS2 for free? Yes it is legal.
***************************************
You can do a lot of good exposure shooting with one strobe.
Did somebody mention strobe?
STROBES
A strobe is basically an UW flash and is very important in UW photography.
The advice seems to be "Pick up the the most powerful strobes within your budget" DPG
They can help in reducing backscatter and of course light your subject.
They attach to the housing using arms and clamps.
Inon, Ikelite, Sea and Sea are well-regarded manufacturers.
This is what they look like
How do they work?
uwphotographyguide.com do an excellent job at answering that curtesy of Scott Gietler.
Click > HERE to go there now.
He deals with how they work - diffusers - various directions for lighting.
It is clearly a large area of knowledge - esp. when we talk of adjusting power settings and White Balance. At the bottom of that article you will see further useful links
e.g. Setting White Balance on your camera - UW camera settings etc.
Before you get your camera wet it should be obvious that you are familiar with the basics of that camera. That you can set the Aperture - the Shutter Speed and the ISO and can change them as required UW.
Then you need to back that up with knowing your housing and its controls.
I find a lot of surface practice helps greatly.
DPG
The link is > HERE
Lots of advice here some more advanced e.g.
Syncing strobes and cameras
High sync speed
Lighting macro and wide angle.
Click on Articles (top of the page) to view over 70 pages of images and info.
Galleries has over 20 pages of great images.
Articles and images for UW strobe positioning Click > HERE
Where in Ireland can you do an UW photography course?
Ideally I would like pool sessions where "subjects" could be positioned near the bottom.
Instruction from an experienced UW photographer.
Instruction to cover buoyancy techniques - composition - lighting - ambient light -
exposure - etc.
NAC would be ideal.
Scuba West do a session.
Basic Tips from UW photography
1. Get within 12in to your subject. Remember water reduces colour, contrast and sharpness.
2. Have you camera in forced flash mode.
3. make sure the subject's eyes are in focus.
4. For best composition - shoot upwards - fill the frame with the subject.
5. have good diving skills before you start shooting a camera.
5. Practice topside with housing and camera - flowers etc.
6. To minimise backscatter position the strobe away from the housing.
To set up your camera for UW you will need to know a little about Depth of Field, Aperture Priority manual control and white balance.
7. If your shots are not sharp pay attention to your shutter speed >
For still objects you need 1/30s at least - 1/50 or 1/60 is better.
For slow moving subjects 1/60 or 1/80 and
for fast moving subjects 1/125 or 1/160s or faster.
8. Use spot focus mode.
9. Keep the ISO as low as possible e.g. 100
10. Use a dive light to help your camera to focus.
Beginner mistakes
Check the camera settings before you dive - Raw - check ISO setting -
Not getting close enough.
Cluttered images with no clear subject.
Lack of sharpness - too slow a shutter.
Distracting background.
Don't shoot at subjects 2-3ft away - too far.
Use the **Histogram and *highlight screen (Blinkies) to check exposure after each shot.
If the exposure is wrong as in too bright or too dark - make corrections and shoot again.
** Search "Understanding Histograms" and choose the Digital Photography School for an "easy" to follow explanation of the Histogram and how it works.
* A very good You Tube video on Blinkies > https://youtu.be/Em8XuFl00lg
Whether you have a compact or a DSLR Aperture Priority is a very useful camera mode UW.
You set the Aperture and the camera selects the SS.
* A very good You Tube video on Blinkies > https://youtu.be/Em8XuFl00lg
Whether you have a compact or a DSLR Aperture Priority is a very useful camera mode UW.
You set the Aperture and the camera selects the SS.
Example: Lets say you want lots of your photo to be in focus - in other words you want a big Depth of Field. So you choose Aperture Priority and select f/8.
If on the other hand you want to separate your main subject from the background choose f/2.8.
This A will give you a small DOF.
So your subject can be in focus and the background blurred.
What about Shutter Speed Priority?
This is where you choose SS Priority and set a SS. The camera sets the Aperture.
For static scenes set 1/60s in order to keep the images sharp.
For fast movers like dolphins you need a faster SS like 1/125s to freeze the action.
So it depends what you expect to shoot
Recap on SS Priority: 1/125s to freeze the action Recap on Aperture Priority:
1/60s should be good for general shooting. f/2.8 small DOF make subject pop
1/250s for very fast action f/8 or f/11 to get everything sharp.
Keep ISO at 100 if possible for best quality shots.
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Close focus with the Tokina by *Alex Mustard > HERE
where you will see stunning images from one of the top UW photographers in the business.
where you will see stunning images from one of the top UW photographers in the business.
CFWA = Close focus wide angle. HERE
Whale Shark Tokina 10-17 ISO320 f/11 1/200
(*I have permission from Alex to use his images in this blog)
Thank you Alex.Above image Alex used f/11 to ensure everything is in focus = big DOF.
1/200s was enough to ensure a steady shot.
ISO 320 allows good exposure of the underneath of the animal that might otherwise be dark.
Anything
that’s larger than a basketball should be considered a wide-angle
subject. By using a wide lens with at least 100 degrees of coverage,
you can get within inches to a few feet of your subject and still
maintain an expansive background. By eliminating as much water as
possible between the lens and subject, you will achieve better
contrast and clarity, as well as more-effective light from your
strobes.
Very interesting article/tips from Jeff Millisen who went to Raja Ampat and found he was swamped and so spoiled for choice that he was getting very few good shots
Click HERE to go there now.
As he says - sometimes you have to camp out and wait for the actors to get into place -
"waiting for the background action to align perfectly".
A solid portfolio from a location should include the following - Split shots - Macro - models in the background - models as the subject - Snell's window - fish portraits - silhouettes and black backgrounds.
VIDEOS
How the Bobbit worm got its name!
Don't miss it........ well you would if it happened to you!! Click HERE
************************************
Very interesting article/tips from Jeff Millisen who went to Raja Ampat and found he was swamped and so spoiled for choice that he was getting very few good shots
Click HERE to go there now.
As he says - sometimes you have to camp out and wait for the actors to get into place -
"waiting for the background action to align perfectly".
A solid portfolio from a location should include the following - Split shots - Macro - models in the background - models as the subject - Snell's window - fish portraits - silhouettes and black backgrounds.
VIDEOS
How the Bobbit worm got its name!
Don't miss it........ well you would if it happened to you!! Click HERE
************************************
Tip
1: Don't over think focus.
Wide-angle photography has lots of inherent depth of field, which is the amount of your image that is in focus from foreground to background. Since you have more depth of field behind your focus point than in front, set your focus on the nearest subject in the frame — which isn’t necessarily always in the center — to ensure that your entire image will be in focus. If you focus on the background, your foreground won’t be in focus.
Wide-angle photography has lots of inherent depth of field, which is the amount of your image that is in focus from foreground to background. Since you have more depth of field behind your focus point than in front, set your focus on the nearest subject in the frame — which isn’t necessarily always in the center — to ensure that your entire image will be in focus. If you focus on the background, your foreground won’t be in focus.
Tip
2: f/8 and stay there - By leaving
your aperture set,
you can independently control the foreground light with your strobe
and the background light with your shutter speed.
Don’t have those controls on your camera?
Exposure compensation (the +/- button) will control the background light.
Bear in mind that f/2.8 will give a small DOF.
Don’t have those controls on your camera?
Exposure compensation (the +/- button) will control the background light.
Bear in mind that f/2.8 will give a small DOF.
Tip
3: Find more than one subject. Having
more than one subject will add more interest to your photos. If your
dive buddy is busy taking his own photos and can’t model for you,
try framing your shot with the dive boat or a sun ball in the
background.
Tip
4: Look at the blues.
In most cameras, the auto-exposure settings will result in a background that is too bright and will have an unattractive cyan color to it, especially toward the top of the photo.
To get a darker and more-pleasing blue color, increase your shutter speed, or if your camera doesn’t have that control, adjust your exposure compensation to the minus side.
In most cameras, the auto-exposure settings will result in a background that is too bright and will have an unattractive cyan color to it, especially toward the top of the photo.
To get a darker and more-pleasing blue color, increase your shutter speed, or if your camera doesn’t have that control, adjust your exposure compensation to the minus side.
Control
Foreground Light with your strobe – Power of the strobe?
Control
Background Light with your Shutter speed - the faster the SS the
darker the background and the better the colour BLUE.
Understanding Shutter Speed UW
SS affects the amount of ambient light entering the camera.
Example: Lets say you are shooting at 1/30s and you change to 1/60s _ you have now cut the ambient light entering the camera in half (= 1 stop).
There is a one stop difference between all of these SS
1/15th 1/30th 1/60th 1/125th 1/250th 1/500th 1/1000th
So changing the shutter speed affects the Ambient light - the slower the SS the more ambient light is let in. These changes do not affect strobe light.
Faster SS is used to freeze action and movement.
Faster SS is also used to lessen camera shake.
If you are using a strobe - SS can't be faster than the camera sync speed.
The faster the SS the less light comes into the camera - in low light a fast SS is very difficult - so you will need to add a strobe.
1/125s is about the slowest SS needed to capture motion.
1/200s or faster to shoot moving dolphins or sea lions.
Fast speeds also to capture sun rays.
If the SS is too slow you will get a blurred image.
Shutter Speed and Strobes in Macro Photography.
divephotoguide.com is excellent - when you go there search "Underwater Photography Techniques" - you get 12 tutorials starting with UW Photography Fundamentals.
In macro the strobe supplies most of the light.
1/200s or faster to shoot moving dolphins or sea lions.
Fast speeds also to capture sun rays.
If the SS is too slow you will get a blurred image.
Shutter Speed and Strobes in Macro Photography.
divephotoguide.com is excellent - when you go there search "Underwater Photography Techniques" - you get 12 tutorials starting with UW Photography Fundamentals.
In macro the strobe supplies most of the light.
A strobe fires at about 1/500s.
So usually changing the SS does not affect the photo.
Exception - if the ambient light is bright enough.
Example: in dark water using f/16 ISO 100 there is no Ambient light getting in whether you are at 1/250s or 1/30s.
But if you are in bright water near the surface shooting strobe-lit macro using f/5.6
ISO 200 and 1/100s now a lot of ambient light is getting into the photo.
You should increase the SS to cut down on the ambient light - which will give better colours and a sharper picture.
What is sync speed about?
Mechanical shutters have a maximum SS that will work with the cameras flash or a strobe. On most cameras that will be 1/200 or 1/250s.
If you use a faster SS that that you will get a black photo.
Electronic shutters can sync much faster > 1/1000s
kenrockwell.com does a decent job of explaining Sync speeds.
Mechanical shutters have a maximum SS that will work with the cameras flash or a strobe. On most cameras that will be 1/200 or 1/250s.
If you use a faster SS that that you will get a black photo.
Electronic shutters can sync much faster > 1/1000s
kenrockwell.com does a decent job of explaining Sync speeds.
Practice
with Ambient light then Practice with the strobes
Then
add the two together
Camera
settings - Manual mode f/8 ISO 100 1/125
Further
away subjects f/5.6
Close
focus and shooting into the sun small aperture like f/16
Low
vis ISO 200
Shutter
speed controls the colour BLUE >
Too bright go faster SS - Too dark go slower SS
Too bright go faster SS - Too dark go slower SS
Set
the strobe power yourself instead of TTL
The
number one mistake people make is not shooting at an upward angle -
resulting in a low contrast photo.
The 2nd mistake is trying to shoot a "scene" instead of a particular subject.
The 3rd mistake is not getting close enough to the subject - 1 or 2ft away is best.
Strobe position for wide angle
The 2nd mistake is trying to shoot a "scene" instead of a particular subject.
The 3rd mistake is not getting close enough to the subject - 1 or 2ft away is best.
Strobe position for wide angle
Wide
for schools of fish
In
tight for close up
One
above the camera and one to the side for shooting vertically
You
can try pointing the strobes at the subject, but that usually will
result in some backscatter.
The more particles in the water, the more you will have to point the strobes outward.
The more particles in the water, the more you will have to point the strobes outward.
When
using a wide-angle lens, and especially a fisheye lens, you will
notice that the dome shade protects the camera lens from strobe light
when the strobe is directly overhead, or to the sides (the 12 noon,
3pm or 9pm positions on a clock). Keep
the strobes away from the corners of your photos (the 10PM / 2PM
position on a clock).
If
you are using the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye lens, you
will get much less backscatter at
the 17mm range,
which is focal length you should use when first starting out,
shooting at 10mm is much more difficult.
Most
people do not make their foreground subject large enough in the
photo. The
foreground subject should take up a significant portion of the
screen.
A
strong shot has a lit foreground subject, and a strong background
subject like the sun, a dive model, a school of fish, or a structure.
If I see the boat on the surface silhouetted, I'll often look for a
subject to use as a foreground model for that shot.
I
also like using the sun in my photos. It is important to close down
your aperture so the sun is not blown out, and you need to get close
to your subject, because strobe light does not travel far when using
small apertures.
Beautiful
foreground and background.
Shoot
UPWARDS to get a brighter blue.
Beautiful Colors
Getting
great colors means getting very close to the subject, filling the
frame and having the sun behind the subject so there is not too much
ambient light hitting the subject. Reds, oranges and yellows work
best.
High
Contrast / Sunburst
Getting
low on the subject, tilting your camera way back
and shooting vertically so you get the sun in the photo can result in
a nice high-contrast photo.
Photo taken at a downward angle are often
drab and low contrast.
Giant
kelp >>>>
lead in lines
The
curves in kelp can
create
beautiful images.
Main beginners lighting problem is badly lit foreground subject because of poor position of the strobes.
e.g. strobes too far out will overexpose the the sides of the subject instead of the centre of the subject.
The bottom image is better lit
The top one has light in the wrong places - the sides
f/13
1/60s
ISO 200
The main problem is arms that are too long.
If the subject is 3 ft away
we need long arms.
Inside 2 ft we need the strobes close to the port for high quality lighting.
Wide arms leave the center in shade.
Strobes within 8in of the dome will light the subject provided we are close enough.
Not close enough we will get backscatter with strobes this close.
Strobes behind the back of the port to avoid flare.
Point them straight ahead for CFWA and point slightly inwards when very close (12in).
Shooting verticals the strobes are now at 6 and 12 oclock.
The lower strobe will be too close as you tilt the camera upwards so either lower its power by 4 clicks (INON Z240)
An interesting background is essential to a
good CFWA shot.
Solid blue water is a dull background.
It need texture or sun or a silhouetted subject >
Diver - archway - cave - kelp.
A diver makes the ideal background esp. if you get it to balance the composition (below)
When diving in clear blue water look for warm coloured subjects because they compliment the Blues of the water - best impact.
Macro Wide angle.
Requires small dome ports to allow good quality light to reach the subject.
The orange coral is very close - yet the fall off in colour for the rest of the coral is very sharp even though it is only 1 ft beyond the orange coral.
Shallow water - the sun lights most of the sea bed
The strobes light the foreground by filling in the shadows
The trick is to make it look like no strobes were used.
Inverse Square Law
The inverse square law states that an object that is twice the distance from a source of light will receive a quarter of the illumination.
This is important as you change the strobe power or change the Aperture.
If you move from 2 ft to 1 ft from subject you will need only 1/4 of the light.
Improving your Underwater Photography
There's
many ways to improve
your underwater photography.
One way is to shoot ambient
light for
a while. For someone trying to get better at wide-angle photography,
this is what I recommend.
- First, start off just shooting blue water. Understand how to meter the water, understand what gives you the blue color that you prefer.
- Second, shoot the water with the sun in the photo. Find out what settings give you the results you like.
- Third, shoot only silhouettes. You should have the blue color you like, and be comfortable getting nice dark silhouettes.
- Fourth, practice shooting foreground subjects; learn how to light them properly. Don’t worry about the background.
- Last, combine steps 3 and 4, shoot foregrounds with a silhouette in the background. It should all come together.
To learn more about wide-angle photography
- Read more about settings for wide-angle underwater photography
- Read more about Good blue color in underwater wide-angle shots
- The underwater lighting chapter covers strobe position, types of lighting, color temps, hotspots, and getting good blues.
- How to shoot over-under shots
- Tips for Dive Model Photography in the Ocean
- Learn to Shoot and Edit Underwater Panoramas
Free wide-angle underwater photography online tutorials
- 1987 Part II - Strobe exposures
Web Sites
uwphotographyguide.com - Excellent
covers articles, tutorials, settings, reviews, travel, guide for beginners on everything
Underwater photography magazine - sign up for free
covers back issues, ads, "sell your kit"
Backscatter - USA
Articles, shop, trips and classes, used gear.
DPG > DivePhotoGuide.com
techniques, articles, Photographer of the week, great gallery shots, contests, equipment and more.
British society of underwater Photographers
bsoup.org
UW Photos
upylondon.com
2016 Underwater photographer of the Year
Dailymail.co.uk "The greatest underwater photographs from around the world"
the guardian.com
Underwater photographer of the year exhibition 2017
Alex Mustard photos
2016 Ocean Art Contest Winners -16 categories!
gillmcdonald.com - Galleries
Fish to shoot in Red Sea > click HERE
to see Gills shots from the Red Sea of the following -
Box fish - Anemone - Cardinal fish - Coral Goby - school of Glass Fish on the move - Horse mackerel with mouths open - Leopard Grouper - Lionfish at Beacon Rock - Long nose Hawkfish - Moray Eel - Damsel fish.
